Destination: Ireland Pastoral, urban, poetic, feisty, backwards, brilliant, devout and debauched: Ireland has always been more complicated than its shamrock-laden image ever let on. But the old cliches are now more inadequate than ever. The past decade has been a time of rejuvenation for the small island nation.
Ireland has finally shaken the shackles of colonization, and in the process its cities have blossomed with commerce and culture. Dublin in particular has become one of Europe's most exciting and vibrant urban centers. Meanwhile, Galway, Belfast, Cork and Kilkenny, always fine spots for a few lazy pints, have picked up the pace, with a range of flashy clubs and international restaurants exuding a cosmopolitan joie de vivre never before seen this side of London. The good life is spilling out to the remotest villages, where cozy country cottages have been converted into artisans workshops and fine eateries.
Ireland's prosperity has also attracted, for the first time in its history, a wave of immigrants from Eastern Europe and Africa who have brought with them an energy and culture that add greatly to Ireland's own identity. In the North, the Troubles appear to be entering the last chapter of their turbulent history.
But Ireland has not forsaken its stunning natural beauty and proud traditions. Slate-toned lakes, green pastures, tranquil mountain retreats, magnificent cliffs overlooking the wild Atlantic coast, remote sandy beaches, ancient offshore island villages and the friendliness of the people remain untarnished. Many traces of traditional culture survive, especially in remote western areas, and there are still communities in which Irish is the first language. Ireland remains one of the most beautiful and interesting countries in Europe.