Introduction: Best Travel Experiences in Germany Exploring the New Berlin: Anyone who lived through the neuroses of the Cold War can’t help but shudder at the memory of the Berlin Wall. Since reunification, civic planners, with almost manic enthusiasm, have demolished large sections of what stood for 40 years as a scar across the face of a defeated nation. The architectural changes and urban developments that are constantly updating the cityscape around Berlin’s Friedrichstrasse and Potsdamer Platz can be confusing. But regardless of which renewal program is churning up rubble at the time of your visit, a pilgrimage through what used to be the most bitterly contested urban turf in Europe can’t help but provoke powerful emotions. See chapter 3.
Dreaming on a Midsummer's Night in a Biergarten: When the temperature rises, head immediately for the unpretentious cheer of the nearest biergarten. These watering holes, which often feature trellises, climbing vines, Chinese lanterns, and arbors, offer low-cost fun on soft summer nights. You can order platters of hearty food with your beer or bring your own picnic. Everybody in Germany seems to have his or her favorite, but some of the best are in Bamberg and Munich. See chapters 5 and 7.
Cruising the Elbe, the Danube, and the Rhine: This trio of rivers, along with their tributaries, dominated German commerce for hundreds of years. Today, an armada of tugboats, barges, and cruise ships still ply the muddy waters beside riverbanks lined with the historic majesty (and sometimes the industrial might) of Central Europe. Cruises begin and end at large cities of historic interest and last anywhere from 6 hours to 7 days. KD River Cruises of Europe ([tel] 800/346-6525 in the U.S., or 0221/20881 in Cologne) offers the most services. See chapters 5 and 13.
Boating on the Königssee: A romantic poet would praise this lake, near Berchtesgaden in Bavaria, for the forest-covered mountains that surround its cold, deep, dark waters. The baroque chapels and fairy-tale hamlets on its shores supplement its natural grandeur. The boat you ride will be powered by very quiet electric motors, so that you can hear the extraordinary echoes that bounce off the rock faces. See chapter 8.
Hiking in the Bavarian Alps: In summer, alpine hiking is a major attraction in Germany. Hikers are able to observe firsthand a variety of wildlife, often including endangered species. One of the best areas for hiking is the 1,237m (4,060-foot) Eckbauer, lying on the southern fringe of Partenkirchen. The tourism office in Garmisch-Partenkirchen will supply maps and details. Many visitors come in summer to hike through the Berchtesgaden National Park, bordering the Austrian province of Salzburg. See chapter 8.
Ascending the Zugspitze: If the gentle inclines of the Harz Mountains or the Thuringian forests aren’t dramatic enough for you, ride the cable car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the top of Germany’s tallest mountain at 2,963m (9,720 feet) above sea level. The view from the top is suitably panoramic, and you’ll find an appealing aura of German-ness that comes from the many hill climbers and trekkers who fan out across the hiking trails. See chapter 8.
Taking the Waters at a Spa: In Germany, the question isn’t whether to visit a spa, but rather, which spa to visit? Each resort has its own virtues and historical associations and can supply a list of the health benefits associated with its awful-tasting waters. Regardless of your choice, you’ll emerge from your treatment with a more relaxed attitude and a greater appreciation of German efficiency and German sensuality. The most famous spa is in Baden-Baden (see chapter 10).
Motoring Along the Neckar: The Neckar River meanders through about 80km (50 miles) of some of Germany’s most famous vineyards. But the real appeal of the winding road along the water is in the medieval castles scattered along the way. Highlights en route include Heidelberg, Neckarsteinach, Hirschhorn, Eberbach, Zwingenberg, and Burg Hornberg. Don’t forget to stop en route for samplings of the local wines. See chapter 11.
Spending Harvest Time in the German Vineyards: Springtime in Germany brings the promise of bounty to the legendary vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel Valleys, but the autumn harvest is truly the time to visit. Between late August and mid-October, the banks of the rivers turn gold and russet, and armies of workers gather buckets of grapes from the rows of carefully pruned vines. Most of the medieval villages and historic castles scattered between Koblenz and Trier are associated with estates where the new wines can be sampled. See chapters 13 and 14.
Touring the Fairy-Tale Road (Märchenstrasse): This is one of the newer marketing ideas of the German tourist authorities, but considering its appeal, you’ll wonder why they didn’t think of it earlier. From the town of Hanau (a 30-minute drive northeast of Frankfurt), the route zigzags northward along the Weser River for about 600km (375 miles) through some of Germany’s most evocative folkloric architecture, terminating in Bremen. Scores of well-marked detours pepper the way. Required reading for the trip is a collection of the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm and the Nibelungen legends. Don’t overlook the psychological implications of Goldilocks, the Big Bad Wolf, and the Pied Piper of Hamlin. See chapter 15.
Lounging on the Island of Sylt: Don’t expect a lush or verdant island--the climate is temperamental, the setting is savage, the winds blow cold from the north even in summer, and the grasses that manage to survive in the sandy dunes are as weathered and sturdy as the soldiers in a Prussian regiment. Why is it wonderful? Because here, the no-nonsense residents of north Germany can preen, flutter, and show off to each other, far from the strictures of their workplaces and the hardworking grind of their economic miracle. See chapter 17.
